Let’s start on a high note this week by presenting the Doburoku Festival held in Obu, Aichi Prefecture, which continues a tradition stretching back more than 500 years. Doburoku is the term for a white, opaque sake that contains unfermented rice solids suspended in the brew, giving it a cloudy appearance. Sake has to be passed through a filtration mesh for it to be legally called sake. This is usually a fine mesh that removes all the solids, but sometimes a coarser mesh is used to create doburoku by allowing the smaller solids to pass through. (I tried some once, but it was much too sweet for my taste.) Ten Shinto shrines around the country are allowed to brew doburoku without passing it through a mesh filter at all, including one for Imperial coronations.
Every year, the responsibility for brewing the sake used in Obu’s festival is rotated among different groups of citizens. This year’s group made 500 liters, about 50% more than in a typical year. It’s no surprise that the festival is popular with the citizens, and they started forming long lines at noon for the chance to belly up to the bar. The accompanying photo shows what happens when you imbibe the divine spirit through the doburoku.
There’s something about winter festivals that brings out the desire in Japanese men to run through splashing water wearing nothing but a loincloth. A crowd estimated at 135,000 turned out in Aichi Prefecture to see just that, as 9,000 men participated in a spectacle with a tradition dating back more than 1,200 years.
It starts with the shinotoko, a man who has received the spirit of the divinity, conducting prayers at a shrine. Then, the throng of nearly naked men rush onto the shrine grounds from all directions, yelling in unison. After their arrival, another group of men appears and douses them with buckets of water hot enough to raise steam from the ground. This year, the air temperature at festival time was 5.6 degrees C.
The men in loincloths then rush toward the shinotoko with the intention of touching him, and there is a lot of jostling and elbowing in the process. It is believed that touching the shinotoko will remove the evil spirits from their bodies.
Meanwhile, the Anba Festival, dating from the Edo period, was held in Namie-machi, Fukushima Prefecture, with young fishermen wearing white coverlets on the lower half of their bodies. After a ceremony near the fishing piers, the fishermen plunge into the freezing sea water chanting “Sorya, sorya!” and carrying a mikoshi, or portable shrine, made from a sake barrel. They undergo this chilling, teeth-gritting experience to offer a prayer for a bountiful catch and harvest. The festival also includes traditional kagura dancing and a rice planting dance performed by primary and junior high school girls (shown in the photo).
The Kagihiki Festival held in Kanoya, Kagoshima Prefecture is so exciting that a camera crew and producer flew in from Great Britain to film the event for a television program. First, two trees are cut down in the nearby mountains. One is a cypress with a hook-shaped root, representing the male, and the other is a cherry whose trunk is forked, representing the female. On a signal given by conch shell trumpets and taiko drums, the trees are dragged into the center of the shrine grounds. Then they are used instead of ropes in a tug-of-war contest between two teams, with the winner of two of three pulls declared the champion for the year. The air is filled with shouts and grunts, and even the spectators thrust themselves into the action. This year’s winning team won the first two matches, eliciting shouts of banzai!
Festivals do not always involve half-naked men getting doused with water or diving into the sea, or engaging in such roughhousing as having a tug-of-war with logs. Many traditional doll festivals are held at this time of year to coincide with Girls’ Day on March 3. One of these is the Biggu Hina Festival in Katsuura-cho, Tokushima Prefecture. The town has set up a large, pyramid-shaped stand in a local hall to hold the doll display. The stand is 5.5 meters high and has 100 levels. Katsura-cho has 50,000 dolls in its collection, and it displays 10,000 of these at one time with another 5,000 it has received from people throughout the country. While the spectators don’t get sloshed, splashed, or pushed around, they do enjoy taking photos of themselves in front of their favorite dolls.
Finally, if there were any doubts about the Japanese imagination when it comes to festival rites, the Kinekosa Festival held jointly by seven Shinto shrines in Nagoya should dispel them. More than 1,000 years old, the festival is held to drive away evil spirits and pray for the prosperity of one’s descendants, peace, and a good harvest. The festival date is January 17 according to the lunar calendar, which fell on February 25th this year.
While the main event does involve loincloth-clad men, there is a twist. The men stick long bamboo poles into the river. Then, one of group skinnies up the pole. The direction in which the pole falls predicts the area’s fortune in the year ahead. They’re in luck this year, as the pole fell in the direction indicating good fortune.