Some years ago, I served as one of several volunteer interpreters for the city where I live when it finalized a sister city agreement with an American municipality. During the course of the week-long events, one of the Americans asked me where he could buy a kimono. He had promised a friend of his back in the States that he would bring one back as a souvenir.

I explained that even the cheapest kimono are quite expensive, they require special underwear and accessories, you need someone to teach you how to wear them, and even then most women need help to put them on. I suggested that he get her an inexpensive yukata instead.

I’ve never seen a Japanese woman who didn’t look great wearing a yukata.

A yukata is a lightweight cotton kimono for summer wear and has been part of the Japanese wardrobe since the Heian Period, which ran from 794-1185. Court nobles wore them as summer bathrobes, then the warrior class picked up the habit, and finally the fashion spread to everyone during the Edo Period. Both men and women wear them, sometimes as nightwear, sometimes for lounging around the house, and always after a bath at a ryokan, a Japanese-style inn. Guests are provided with yukata to wear along with the towels and washcloths.

The popularity of the yuakata is surging, however, particularly among young women, and they are increasingly being worn in public. As far I can tell, they never really went away—women have always worn them in public in the summer, particularly for festivals, but the Japan Times reports that sales are soaring again. I’d link to their article, but they didn’t see fit to put it on line, so here are the main points:

• According to the Japan Federation of Yukata Manufacturers, demand for yukata peaked in 1964 when 13 million rolls of cloth were sold nationwide. (In passing, let me note that you shouldn’t be surprised that such an industry group exists. In Japan, there are industry groups for everything.)
• Production levels bottomed out in 2000 at 1.6 million rolls, rose in 2002, and climbed to 3.5 million rolls last year.
• Major department stores have been expanding their sales sections for yukata.
• Fast Retailing Co., operator of the Uniqlo chain, launched a 3,990 yen yukata set that includes an obi (sash).

The article also reports that while yukata are usually made of cotton, some companies are bringing out polyester varieties because they absorb perspiration better, dry quicker, do not crease, and are easy to wash. Considering the oppressive heat and humidity of the Japanese summer, a polyester yukata would seem to miss the whole point, but then I’m not about to try to figure out female fashions. They also mention that robes made of hemp are also selling well because of the material’s smooth texture.

The aspect about yukata I like the best is their visual beauty. They are a visual treat because they are exceptionally colorful and employ imaginative patterns. Besides, if a woman asks me why I’m staring at her, I can always tell the truth and say I’m admiring her clothes. The Japan Times passes along the information from department stores, however, that subdued colors and classical patterns are in fashion these days.

Here’s a nice website with an explanation of yukata and kimono. This site offers yukata for sale online, both to men and to women. Here’s an interesting snippet about an 87-year-old merchant who has 30,000 patterns in his collection, and includes a picture of a pattern from the Edo Period. If you want instructions in how to wear one, visit this page. And if you really want to check them out in detail, this Japanese language site is an online shop with hundreds of patterns. Each of the icons at the left takes you to a different color group.

I wouldn’t mind having a man’s yukata myself for the summer, but at 6′6″, I’d need one made to order. I’ve worn the ones they provide at a ryokan, which are made to fit local physiques, and it’s all the Japanese can do not to laugh when they see me!