There are certain fundamentals that are evident in every culture; among these traditions are art, music, architecture and my favourite – clothing. To me there is nothing more fascinating than sauntering down the Champs-Elyse in Paris scrutinising every detail of the French sense of style, observing luxe hippies hanging out on the central reservation of Las Ramblas in Barcelona, or witnessing the catwalk to work that is New York 7am to 9am.
The natural compulsion to compare and contrast international style loiters in the back of my mind wherever I travel, and never has it been stronger than when I arrived in Osaka several months ago. Seconds after stepping lightheaded and sleepy from a seventeen hour flight I encountered my first peek at Japanese style. The ‘Japanese Only’ queue at immigration was awash with silhouettes and trends as yet unseen in European streets. Even through my sleep-deprived haze I was hooked!
The first thing I noticed was the fabulously draped chunky knitwear in midnight blue, heady aubergines, and earthy browns and greens. This season’s catwalks have cleverly reflected the global consensus of thrift. Being a conscientious consumer has never been so en vogue and the trend’s hasty adoption by the rich (maybe in the reverse process of a trend filtering up from the high street consumer) has shown a shift in global spending habits. Fashion has cleverly pre-empted this stark change in direction from summer’s ethnic florals and prints on miles of soft, luxurious fabrics (not that it’s disappeared completely; Gucci are flying the luxe ethnic flag in their latest collection), and produced garments based on sensible investment and simple silhouettes. Notable for me were Louis Vuitton, Jill Sander, Kenzo (stunning, chunky knitwear swathed haphazardly around models bodies complimented by bare legs and minimum accessories), Stella McCartney and Dolce and Gabbana amongst many others. Though, apparently they are all trailing the chic Japanese women!
It had been some time since I’d been to an unfamiliar country and the thrill of seeing new fashion was coursing through my veins by the time I arrived at my hotel (also flowing joyously through my veins was the elixir of life known in Japan as ‘Boss Coffee Rainbow Mountain Blend’). Let’s move away from knitwear now though as it was, at this point in time, still officially summer in Japan and pushing 27° most days. On my first venture out into the Japanese evening I was not greeted with any of the summer’s European fashions (the tea dress, straw trilby or the hideous gym pumps adorning the feet of indie teenagers) but instead was emerged in a world of simplicity and rigid elegance.
I dined alone in a small sushi restaurant on that first night (“Hitori des” being a phrase I learned quickly as a young woman travelling alone) but without my usual armour of a book or magazine. Instead I sat transfixed at my table examining the slew of business people who came and went in their perfectly tailored suits. The men were predictably attired as in any western country. It was the women that held my attention. Never before had I seen so many varieties of the classic white shirt and suit combo. It dawned on me that, in the same way that the Italians do ‘cool’, the British do ‘countryside’ and the Norwegians do ‘cosy’, the Japanese do ‘graceful’ chic. Issay Miyake may be out there on his own in western fashion, a pioneer of the unusual silhouette, but here in Japan you’re treated daily to a visual plethora of style that reveals his roots and inspirations.
Jane Young, a British national who has lived in Osaka for four years informed me that “There is still a culture of expectation in Japan in every facet of life. More so than in any European country the Japanese are expected to conform to certain regularities. This includes their clothes, the general rule of which is ‘conservative’. Even in the heat of summer you’ll see women in sleeveless shift dresses with a long sleeved blouse underneath to hide their arms. Bare legs in the office are also a no-no”.
When asked about the British habit of coming outside at lunchtime for a little sunbathe she replied “They’ll come outside to go to lunch but it wouldn’t be like in Britain where everyone strips off as much of their work clothes as possible! That much skin would be seriously frowned upon”.
What about that parade of fashion that now runs from tweenagers (aged 11-13) right up to late twenties? I don’t have the space to list all of the subcultures I’ve passed through myself or been witness to (living near London will do that to you). But, in my experience, western style goes all the way and behaves as if there will never be another fashion beyond what is ’now’. Simply put – we take ourselves way too seriously! Think of the permanence of tattoos or piercing scars, or the trauma of spending eighteen months growing out your Agyness Deyn crop. The mantra of young Japanese is “try anything once”, whether their fantasy of the day be punk, Goth, Lolita, cowboy (complete with Stetson and confederate belt buckle) or doll. As long as it’s transitory, anything goes!
The Japanese embrace the ephemeral nature of fashion in a way that we find difficult in Europe. “The expectation to conform makes young Japanese fearful of changing their appearance by getting tattoos or piercings that can’t be reversed or will scar.” Says Japanese fashion student Mika Kiminami “They ‘play’ with fashion like no-one else in the world because their time to be creative is limited”. I must agree with her wise words. My observation of young Japanese (the most famous being the fantastical creations tottering sweetly about the crazy circus that is Harajuku in Tokyo) has given me a new respect for them having the mind to think “next weekend I’ll be a punk”. The skill of boys and girls alike to style themselves in a fresh and individual take on whatever their look of the day is certainly estimable.
The national sense of style in Japan seems to be intrinsically linked with national pride and deep expectation. The sense of countrywide ‘wa’ (harmony) must be protected as far as possible; a concept alien to most Europeans. Never have I visited a country with a more dominant sense of ‘oneness’ than Japan. There is some part of me that loves the organised rebellion of their young people, the way it will conclude when they begin their career and enter the real world. How many times have you heard British ‘kids’ in their late twenties being told to ‘grow up and live in the real world’? Maybe a spoonful of this Japanese medicine would be tough to swallow but ultimately beneficial.
Let it be said though that after spending time in Japan I shall enjoy returning to the convivial and varied world of fashion that Europe offers - much in the way you look forward to the familiarity of your favourite scruffy jumper that you will love and cherish above all other haute couture forever. But Japan I thank you! I thank you for your stiff elegance and ingenious take on being young and creative. I thank you for your individual and indispensable place in the world of fashion, and for being one of the most unambiguous innovators of chic I’ve ever encountered in my wandering quest to view the world’s sense of style one amble at a time.