Yodogawa hanabi

If you are planning to visit Japan during the summer season, something I actually do not recommend, I advise you to visit some of the many matsuri (祭). These festivals are celebrated with drinking, a lot of different foods, sometimes games and many of these Japanese festivals have a big fireworks show.

One of these festivals is Osaka’s ‘Yodogawa festival’. Yodogawa is Osaka’s biggest river, and as the name of the matsuri already gives away, the festival takes place on the Yodogawa riverbanks. Especially with this summerheat a splendid location. The Yodogawa fireworks show is probably one of the most popular fireworks show in Japan and definitely draws one of the largest crowds. I’m talking thousands of people, the place gets really packed. If you are not into large crowds I suggest you watch the fireworks from the Umeda Skyline building, but you’ll really miss the great atmosphere.

Since the fireworks are on the river, you’ll have a good chance to view the spectacle from both sides of the river, I do advise you to come in early for a good spot.

The result:

Just some small advice from me if you intend to visit the next Yodogawa matsuri:

- Come in early, I don’t mean 10 minutes before the start, but at least 5 hours. This will guarantee you a great spot for the show. (If you decide to watch the show from the riverbank that is).
- Bring a large plastic or cloth sheet to sit on.
- Bring food and drinks. Even though you can buy lots of oishii food and drinks at the festival, be prepared to wait in line for 10 to 20 minutes before getting served.
- Bring umbrella’s in case of rain. (This unfortunately can happen and has happened last night. We shared 1 umbrella with 4 people, didn’t ruin the show though)
- Go to the toilet beforehand. (Same as the foodstands, the waiting line for a toilet is around 10 minutes, if you have to do the big one expect to wait in line for over 20 minutes.

Of course, even without these preparations you can still enjoy though.

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The history of Golden Week

Japan is in the middle of Golden Week, a semi-accidental grouping of holidays which gives everyone a break from normal their school or work lives.

The name Golden Week was coined in 1951 when an executive at the Daiei Movie Company noticed a spike in ticket sales around these holidays, so his company started a campaign advertise the holiday week as a great time to go see a movie, in the same way that “golden time” is the best time to watch television (although we call it “prime time”). While everyone uses this label today, Japan’s public broadcasting network NHK stoically refuses, preferring the term “period of consecutive holidays” as the name Golden Week is ostensibly an advertising term for a private industry.

Golden Week is a major economic event both for leisure-oriented businesses inside Japan as well as for areas popular with Japanese tourists, like Hawaii, Guam and California, but the fact that several of this year’s holidays fall on Saturdays may mean fewer leisure-travelers.

In case you’re curious, the holidays that make up Golden Week are Showa Day on April 29, the birthday of the former Emperor; Constitution Day on May 3, to commemorate Japan’s postwar constitution; Green Day on May 4, a day for appreciating plants and growing things; and Children’s Day on May 5, which is traditionally a day to celebrate boy children by flying carp-shaped kites which represent the boys swimming up the stream of life.

Happy Golden Week, everyone!

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Hanami of a different hue

If you thought that hanami season finished when the last of the cherry blossoms fell, think again. Even though Japan’s most famous blossoms are gone for another year, there are still chances to enjoy a hanami picnic before the sultry heat of summer kicks in.

Following signs off the beaten track to the Hiyoshi shrine in Tamana, Kumamoto prefecture, we found the Yamada wisteria (山田藤). The many vines, some of them reputedly over 200 years old, form a canopy over the shrine’s grounds - a pergola in purple.

Wisteria over the shrine torii

Golden Week is a perfect time to see it, occuring as it does right around the start of wisteria’s flowering season, and I’d imagine that that has contributed to the Yamada wisteria’s huge popularity.

Canopy of wisteria over lawns leading up to Hiyoshi shrine

The lawns under the fragrant flowers were packed with picnicking folk, enjoying an al fresco lunch on blue sheets.

Hanami in purple

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Kujira nobori

As everyone living in Japan knows, this is the season of the koinobori carp streamers that can be seen flying outside the homes of families with male children.

I was surprised to find out via a news report today that some areas in Japan have modified koinobori to represent other fish that are local products.

Some locales in Miazaki Prefecture have taken to flying kujiranobori (whale streamers), because whale products are important to the local economy.

Kujiranobori

I wonder if Greenpeace plans to protest. . .

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Prepare for petrol price perplexity

An arm and a legOne thing that Japanese politicians are always hoping to avoid, but are always causing, is ‘confusion’. And with Golden Week and the end of April approaching, Japanese motorists are getting reading for some ‘major confusion’.

Except of course, there is no confusion in the literal sense. It’s an absolute certainty that petrol prices are going to go up. And by more than a little.

The government are working to reinstate the so-called temporary petrol tax that ‘ran out’ at the end of March, leading to a drop in pump prices of ¥20-25. If they succeed, it’s likely to be slapped back on at the beginning of May. The beginning of May also coincides with Golden Week, when Japan goes on holiday en masse, and traditionally gets shafted by a pre-Golden Week price hike at petrol stations anyway.

When the ¥25 tax was removed at the beginning of April, prices round here fell, at the very most, by ¥20, and consumers waited for 3-5 days to see the benefit, as retailers waited to ‘finish stocks of petrol bought at the higher, taxed price’. Even so, there were grumbles from petrol retailers about projected losses.

With the start of Golden Week, the Japanese consumer can expect to get a three-way shafting - the now traditional ¥4-5 Golden Week hike, the continuing rise of global crude prices, and the reinstatement of the tax. And when the tax comes back, will it be (as cynics like me suspect) at a full ¥25 even at stations that only reduced prices by ¥20 or less? There’s potential for the added confusion of when retailers choose to readjust the tax/price - selling petrol that they bought at the lower price, will they maintain the lower price while they still have stock (just as they maintained the higher prices until they’d sold all their higher priced stock a month ago), or will that tax go back on the second it can?

Assorted media are mentioning prices of ¥160 or higher. For comparison, my nearest petrol station is currently selling at ¥122, so we’re talking about a rise of over 30%.

Will all this be enough to enrage the traditionally docile Japanese consumer? The pre-Golden Week price hike is the most interesting part of the equation. Just as everyone prepares get in their cars and go off on holiday, the petrol prices are raised. Every year, like clockwork, the captive audience gets shafted. And does little more than quietly grumble, and acquiesce and pay up. After all, what’s the alternative - vote for change, or something equally mad?

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Momote Shiki: Japanese Archery Ritual

Centuries-old ritual held for the fortune of new adults

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Archers in old style kimono preparing to shoot in the archery ritual known as Momote Shiki

Seijin-no-Hi or Coming of Age Day is celebrated all throughout Japan on the second Monday of January. Throughout the country, similar ceremonies and activities take place among those newly turned 20 such as the wearing of special kimono, going to shrines, attending speeches, and so on. At Meiji Shrine in Tokyo, a unique ceremony takes place that is often overlooked in favor of seeing the kimono-clad girls that populate the shrine on that day.Behind the main shrine complex an archery ritual known as Momote Shiki is performed for the good fortune of all those turning 20 and becoming new adults. Archers wearing a style of formal kimono that samurai once wore in olden times shoot two arrows a piece at a central target.

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Archers arriving at Meiji Shrine in Tokyo

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Momote Shiki Japanese archery ritual videos

On Seijin-no-Hi (Coming of Age Day) in early January in Japan, an archery ritual known as Momote Shiki is held at Meiji Shrine in Tokyo for all those turning 20 for that year.

10 Archers at a time shoot two arrows at a central target. The ritual is performed by the Ogasawara-ryu school of archery.

Here’s a short clip of a Shinto Priest shooting the Kabura-ya (whistling arrow):

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White Day (March 14)

The other day I posted a video that showed the large Valentine’s Day chocolate display at a local supermarket.

I went back to the same store on February 16th to find out what might be left now that Valentine’s Day was over.

Would the shelves be picked clean?

Would they be having a chocolate clearance sale?

Needless to say I was very surprised when I found out that the entire Valentine’s Day chocolate display entirely replaced by a White Day display!

The rows and rows of chocolate had been replaced by handkerchief gift sets, stuffed animals, tins of butter cookies, towels, and. . . of course, more chocolate.

Here is a video of what I saw.

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I Love You In Japan

beloved wive’s day

“I Love you” is not used in often Japan, the main words to express deep feelings is “daisuki” (I really like you), with many Japanese never uttering I love you their whole lives.

A group called Japan Aisaika (”Devoted Husband”) Organization is challenging this cultural standard and asking husbands to come forward and shout their love! Kiyotaka Yamana, who founded the organization, believes that when men become devoted husbands, they also become better men, caring more for others.

Dozens of men stood in a Cabbage field and shouted the words their wives rarely or if ever have heard- Thank you and/or I love you in an event organized by JAO. January 31st is Beloved Wive’s Day and husbands are encouraged to look their wives in the eyes when they are talking, be home by 8 from work (coming home at 8 pm is early in Japan!), and telling their wives how much they appreciate them.

Signs of affection by men are rare in Japan, the upcoming holiday, Valentine’s Day- is a day where men receive gifts of chocolate from their girlfriends and wives. March 14th, White Day, is the day the men repay the women back with gifts, however this is not commonly celebrated.

Via

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Setsubun: The video

Setsubun is February 3rd and it’s kind of like Groundhog Day, New Years, and Halloween all rolled up into one. It’s a day where Japanese seek to drive Oni or Devils from their homes by throwing beans at them. Oni don’t like beans - makes them go blind apparently.

Also many temples and shrines have mami-maki which is where people throw beans and other items at gathered crowds. To catch these items is to bring you good luck all year.

This Setsubun a sudden snowstorm struck in Tokyo. A rather ominious sign as the Setsubun is a Spring Ritual and exorcising the devils is like driving Winter out. I think it was a sneak attack by the Setsubun Devils myself. However the ritual must have worked because the next morning the sun was out.

Background music by Super Girl Juice.

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Sudden snowstorm interrupts Japanese spring ritual

Sneak attack by Setsubun Devils?

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Setsubun Devils enjoying the sudden snowstorm in Tokyo

A sudden snowstorm swept in silently and swiftly during the early morning hours in Tokyo this Feb. 3. Three centimeters of snow covered the capital in a fairly heavy snowfall. Train services were disrupted, traffic backed up, flights were cancelled, and at least 100 people were injured. Although snow is not unusual in Tokyo, these days, however, snow has become less common over the years. Last year it only snowed once and very briefly at that.

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Sudden snowfall in Tokyo at Senso-ji Temple

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I’ve won a prize!

Millions upon millions of New Year greetings postcards are sent in Japan every year. And aside from receiving the cards themselves, you stand a chance of winning a prize in a lottery based on numbers printed on (some of) the cards.

For a full run-down of this year’s prizes, read Ken’s informative post at What Japan Thinks.

That’s some list of prizes. And I’m delighted to report that one of those has made it’s way to the Overoften household.

Details of our prize after the jump…

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Japan’s Coming of Age Day 2008

Kimono-Clad Girls a dying tradition?

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Kimono-Clad Girls at Meiji Shrine in Tokyo on Coming of Age Day

kimono2It was the second Monday of January and once again Japan’s new adults were out and about enjoying their new-found adulthood on the national holiday of Seijin-no-Hi: Coming of Age Day. Many young women sported their decorative kimono with the long-sleeves called furisode. While most young men wore suits, there were a few here and there that wore the formal male kimono known as a hakama.

Japan especially likes marking the ages of its populace and Seijin-no-Hi is no exception. In November, the little ones are all decked out in pretty kimono. Girls ages 3 and 7 and boys aged 5 are honored every year on the Shinto holiday, Shichi-Go-San. Another national holiday is Keiro-no-Hi in September which is respect for elders day.

As for Seijin-no-Hi, the national holiday is only a little over half-a-century old having started in 1948. Now the focus is mainly on the young women in their stunning kimono while the boys get second billing. In the past, however, the emphasis was on the boys. Young men had two coming of age celebrations in which they would change their names. At 12 and 16 they would individually go through their own private special ceremonies. For samurai households, this was a big deal with much pomp and ceremony.

As I usually do every Seijin-no-Hi, I went to Tokyo’s Meiji Shrine which serves as a magnet for kimono-clad girls and avid photographers. Meiji Shrine’s courtyard was packed with people. Disappointingly most of them were visitors and photo-hunting photographers. Occasionally, the dull visage of the monotonous fashion of the throng would be broken up with the arrival of brilliantly colored kimono-clad girls either alone or in small groups. A declining population, rising kimono prices, and a growing disinterest in traditional culture has led to fewer sightings of Seijin-no-Hi’s main attraction.

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Japan’s Coming of Age Day - The Movie

The following video is a pictorial montage of Seijin0no-Hi from 2006 to 2008 taken at Meiji Shrine in Tokyo. The shrine holds an archery ritual, which is pictured here, known as Momote Shiki iin honor of the new adults

Music by The Sushi Cabaret Club, a band based in Nagoya Japan.

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Cost of flying is soaring

Airport queueIf you’re thinking of flying in to or out of Japan after April this year, then this news is for you.

The Japan News Review reports that both JAL (Japan Airlines) and ANA (All Nippon Airways) are set to hike all their fares from April.

Travellers heading from Japan to North America will see a 13 percent increase, while those leaving for South America, Asia and Oceania will see a 10 percent increase. The extent of the price raise for flights to Europe is as of yet undecided.

The cynical among you may make much of an entirely tenuous link between these fares going up in April and Golden Week being in May. Tenuous, at best. Unrelated even.

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New Year. . . Roppongi Style

On New Year’s Eve, I first went to Zojo-ji Temple to see the countdown. From there I preceded on foot to Roppongi where the clubs were expensive and packed. Tensions were high.

I bumped into a fight between three security guards of Gaspanic’s Club 99 and two patrons. Some bystander leapt in to kick one of the guys but the crowded shouted at him. Another guy got involved but he just tried to break it up.

Actually fights aren’t so common in Roppongi despite what critics might think.

Keep the Peace!

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Choke and Croak 2008

Mr. Pink kindly wrote in to remind us that it won’t really feel like New Year’s until we deliver the Annual Mochi Choke and Croak Report.

Two men died after choking on traditional mochi rice cake in Tokyo on Tuesday and Wednesday, prompting authorities to issue a warning for elderly people who eat the sticky New Year’s treat.

The Tokyo Fire Department said Wednesday that 13 people had been taken to hospital after choking on rice cake during the two days. Of them, a 59-year-old man of Ota Ward and 83-year-old man of Adachi Ward died.

Department officials said seniors should eat mochi in the presence of others after cutting the cake into pieces.

5 die in Kanto after choking on sticky rice cake

Five people died in the Kanto area on Tuesday and Wednesday after choking on sticky “mochi” rice cake, it was learned Thursday.

In Tokyo, a total of 13 people were rushed to hospital on New Year’s Day and the following day after choking on mochi, according to the Tokyo Fire Department. Two of them — a 59-year-old man from Ota-ku and an 83-year-old man from Adachi-ku — died on Tuesday and Wednesday, respectively.

A 71-year-old man from Oyama, Tochigi Prefecture, a 76-year-old man from Tomioka, Gunma Prefecture, and another man living in Yokohama also died after choking on the bubblegum-textured rice cake.

Mochi is traditionally served during the New Year’s period in Japan.

76-year-old man fatally chokes on mochi at Saitama station

A 76-year-old man choked to death at a railway station in Kawagoe, Saitama Prefecture, on Thursday afternoon, after choking on a mochi rice cake, police said. Tomosaku Ohira, from Saitama City, abruptly fell at JR Kawagoe Station around 2:10 p.m. and was rushed to a nearby hospital after paramedics found the mochi stuck in his throat.

Ohira was pronounced dead at the hospital three hours later, police said. Ohira went out alone at about 10 a.m. without telling his family where he was going.

Thanks to Overoften for the updates

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New Year at a Japanese temple

Prayers, fires, and rice cakes ring in the New Year at Zojo-ji in Tokyo

Zojo-ji and Tokyo Tower

In the waning minutes of New Year’s Eve, I was able to get to one of the major temples in Tokyo, Zojo-ji, with less than 5 minutes to spare before the clock struck midnight. The place was packed with people and balloons.

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More Japanese style Christmas

Found via Japan Sugoi

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Vlog on Emperor of Japan’s birthday celebration

The following are two vlog blogs on attending the Japanese Emperor’s Birthday celebration. The current Emperor is Akihito and his birthday - December 23 - is a national holiday.

The Imperial Palace area - Koukyo - is normally off limits to visitors except on December 23 and January 2 when the Emperor gives his New Year’s address.

Part I: A Recounting of the Emperor of Japan’s Birthday Celebration

Part II: A (True) Recounting of the Emperor of Japan’s Birthday Celebration

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