The Michelin Red Guide to New York restaurants has just come out and three “Japanese” eateries have made the list. They are:
- Masa
- Jewel Bako
- Nobu
I’ve never been to Masa because I can’t imagine paying the astronomical price ($350 prix-fixe). Jewel Bako is wonderful. But Nobu? I realize this is a completely unscientific poll, but I don’t know any Japanese in New York who think that Nobu is all that great. The one and only time I went, I was extremely disappointed. The fish was decently handled – not overcooked – but the rice for the sushi was hard, the fish in the sushi only moderately fresh, and the rice in my bowl had clearly been put in with a spoon that scraped the side of the dish, leaving a sticky streak. My Mom sure as heck wouldn’t have let the kitchen staff get away with that!
Lots of people have pointed out that most of the best New York restaurants, according to Michelin, are French, and perhaps that accounts for their rating system. It may also account for the fact that they missed a lot of fantastic restaurants – perhaps they just aren’t familiar with Japanese cuisine. Be that as it may, Japanese food is definitely rising in popularity in this most trend-obsessed city, and New Yorkers are starting to catch on to what is good.
2006 Zagat’s guide, for example. Japanese food is now the most popular Asian cuisine, and new restaurants are opening quite rapidly. Some are sort of gimmicky, like Megu and Ninja, but others are serving really fantastic, authentic food with kaiseki menus. The Japanese language New York based paper, Japion, is constantly advertising for help in these eating establishments. I was talking to a friend the other day, who is contemplating a move back to Japan, but he said he really wants to stay, because things are starting to finally get easier and easier in New York, by which he meant there is more and more good food.
If you are in New York, or coming this way, here are a few fantastic restaurants to try. (And I must give full disclosure; most of these recommendations came to me initially by my food obsessed hairdresser Omae-san, who always knows what is good before anyone else does).
- Aburiya Kinnosuke is the sister restaurant to Yakitori Totto. Kinnosuke is pretty new, and has a great prix-fixe menu for $45 which is kaiseki style. If you call in advance, you can reserve the $60 prix-fixe menu. The sashimi meat here is fresh and will knock you out. The fact that they don’t cook a ton of meat means that the air in the restaurant isn’t oily and heavy; the fish is always light and tender. Check out the matsutake tempura if it’s on the menu. Try the sesame pudding for dessert. The atmosphere is wonderfully relaxed, and the service super nice – attentive but not overbearing. You can get a little side room and have some privacy, which is perfect for stretching a wonderful meal into a long indulgence in conversation and sake (try the unfiltered).
- Try the aforementioned Totto, and be sure to try the beer on tap. There are other yakitoris in New York, like Yakitori Taisho, which I also like. But for food, I have to say, Totto is the best. They used to be something of a secret, but the word has started to get out.
- Learn the word “omakase” (roughly pronounced oh-mah-kah-she). Then head over to Hedeh and ask for it. Trust me. You won’t be disappointed.
- Use the word “omakase” at Kai, which is has a fantastic kaiseki dinner. If the price scares you, try the lunch, which I promise is also fantastic. Kai is an interesting restaurant. It belongs to Itoen, the tea company, and naturally the tea served here is also good. If you sit at the counter, you can watch the staff at work. Everything I’ve had here was amazing, with some photos as proof.
Whatever you do, we at Japundit implore you not to think that Nobu is the epitome of great Japanese food in New York. Nor should you have to pay $350 for a superb dining experience.